Automotive Miniatures is Happy to Announce
The Icon Automotive Miniatures
On-Line Model Car Contest
Currently the list of donating sponsors looks like this.
TNT Hobbies since 1993
M & S Hobbies
Mac's Modeling, LLC.
P.O. Box 14572
Scottsdale, AZ. 85267.
4910 E. Charter Oak Rd. Scottsdale, AZ. 85254
This contest is open to F1 (Formula 1), Indy
Cars & LeMans (Group-C, IMSA-GTP, World Endurance) Style Sports
Cars. Subjects should be built from kits or from scratch. Please, no
Die-cast or Modified Die-cast.
Our intent in having
this contest is to help improve the web presents of Icon Automotive
Miniatures and to promote the modeling hobby as a whole. We
encourage everyone to build to whatever level they are comfortable
with. If this contest inspires improvement, or a new challenge, then
we are pleased to offer this opportunity to you.
This contest is open
to anyone who has a model that will fit into one of the
below. It is open to your past builds as well as anything you may
have currently in the works as long as you are finished with it and
can submit the required pictures before the deadline. You can enter
as many models as you like into as many categories and classes as
you choose, but please be aware, there will be no sweeps allowed in
Even though we hope to
better promote Icon Automotive Miniatures, there is in no way any
restrictions that require the use of Icon Automotive Miniatures
products on your model.
However, if you do use
Icon Automotive Miniatures products on your build you will be
eligible for the “Icon” award to be presented to the best model
using Icon Automotive Miniatures tires. This award will be given in
the same manor as a “Best of Show” award, over and above the normal
1st, 2nd, & 3rd place awards.
In addition we will be
awarding a “Best of Show”. There will be no
“People’s Choice” award.
A) Small Scale (1/32nd
A-1) Curb Side
A-2) Full Detail
B) Standard Scale (1/24th through 1/20th)
B-1) Curb Side
B-2) Full Detail
C) Large Scale (1/18th
C-1) Curb Side
C-2) Full Detail
Category, Sub-category & Class Revision,
suggested that the category break down may have been too confusing.
In an attempt to simplify things I have done away with the classes
as these were really only in place to make it easier for everyone to
know if an entry was built out of the box or modified. This has no
effect on the awards or the judging of entries. Judging of entries
was always going to take place at the Sub-Category level anyway. See
“Awards” below for a further break down on the awards.
It is important to
note that the categories are combined so that Open Wheel models will
be directly competing against the Sport Car models. However, if we
receive enough entries (minimum of 6 entries of each type per
sub-category, that’s 6 Open Wheel cars and 6 Sports Cars) then we
reserve the right to split any given sub-category so that Open Wheel
models will only be competing against Open Wheel models and Sports
Cars against Sports Cars. Additional awards will be introduced if
categories are split.
Requirements are as follows:
You will need to
submit an email to
email@example.com . Your email is to
include items 1 thru 6 listed below. Your entries into the contest
can start now. We will post your name only, the details of the build
and all the pictures that you supply on the Icon Automotive
Miniatures web site. The deadline for last minute submissions is
12:00AM on the night of August 31st 2011 so make sure
your email is sent prior to that date and time.
Please provide us with:
Your Name, Age and Region of the World you live in.
The Category / Sub-Category you are entering your model
The scale of your model.
The name of the kit -Tell us what you started with and who the
8 digital photos from the following angles. Front, Rear, Right side,
Left side, Top, and 3 optional photos of your choice that show off
the details of your model the best.
The description – Tell us everything you want us to know about your
model including any and all detail items used, decals if they are
something special and any modified or scratch built parts that you
want us to know about. If it is supposed to represent a particular
event in history then let us know about that as well. This is your
chance to build up your model with every bit of info you want to be
said about it, so make it good, there is no limit. Just make sure it
is an honest description as the facts will be checked by our crack
team of experts. If you want to reference an on-line forum to show
your work during the build please provide us with a link. This may
also help you during the judging..
Instructions are not required to be submitted at the time of entry
for OOB builds, but may be requested from any entrant to ensure
adherence to the rules. Failure to provide scans/photos or a web
link of the instruction booklet, if requested, may result in the
model being moved into a more suitable class to be determined by the
judges or out right disqualification.
Explanation of Terms and Definitions:
“OOB”, means exactly that. The kit must be
built Out Of the
Box. The only thing you can do is showcase your painting
and clean building talents. Also, decals are open in the OOB
classes, anything goes, so long as it is representative of the
subject you are re-creating. In other words, make sure the subject
has carbon fiber suspension parts before you add carbon decals to
the suspension. Or you may loose “points” for inaccuracies. If there
is an alternative decal livery available and you would like to use
those decals that will be accepted. Bare Metal Foil type products
are also allowed to represent finishes, much like painting or
decals. It cannot be used to “build up” a part in its own right.
“Modified”, If you use ANYTHING
other than what came out of the box then your model will be
considered Modified and will be judged accordingly
”Scratch Built Parts” will
be defined as parts that YOU made from RAW
MATERIALS. These are not parts that you paid someone to make
for you, those will be considered detail parts. If you “Scratch
Build” a part according to the terms above, then you make a RTV mold
and make copies yourself, (let's say a wheel for example)
that will be considered “Scratch
Built” because YOU made the first article and all
subsequent copies of that article.
Clarification: Kit parts that have
been copied by way of RTV mold and cast in resin, even if they have
been modified, are not considered “Scratch Built Parts” so be
careful about how you describe your model so that you get full and
correct credit for your build during the judging process.
“Detail Parts” will be considered as parts you
paid someone other then yourself to make for you or “After Market”
parts you bought that are not generally included in your kit.
“Modified Kit Parts” are just that, kit parts
that YOU modified. Modified kit parts are not
considered “Scratch Built Parts” and will be judged accordingly.
“No Sweeps” means if you enter more than one
model in any one category, we choose the best of that single
entrants work and it alone competes against the others entries
within that one category. Even if that single entrant had the best
two models, second place goes to the next best model built by
another entrant with in that category. This is so that one single
entrant can not “sweep”( place 1st,2nd, and/or
3rd ) in any single category.
Judging will commence
on September the 1st.
In general we will be
following the judging guidelines of the best known modeling contests
from around the US and the globe except in those cases already
outlined above in the Explanation of Terms and Definitions section.
In addition there are some basic things the judges will be looking
for listed below. We think if you know what the judge’s perspective
is, it can be a benefit to you. These are some of the
What are the Judges
First is general
quality and command of the basics of model building. This means the
parts are assembled neatly and aligned correctly. For example, all
the tires are touching the ground symmetrically and the model is
sitting evenly. The sprue nubs have been completely and cleanly
removed and touched up if needed, this includes chrome and clear
parts. Ejection pin marks (those pesky round indentations) and flash
(excess plastic) should be removed as well as any other
imperfections. No excess glue should be showing.
The paint should be uniform, no dirt or fingerprints. If
multiple colors are used, the masked lines should be clean and
sharp. Orange peel and runs, as well as poorly executed body work,
will result in a lower "score".
Adding extra detail is great. But if the basic
construction is not executed well, the extra parts won't matter
much. An Out-Of The-Box model built very cleanly will almost always
beat a model that has been super detailed, but not met the
requirements of basic quality construction.
If you do add details or do something special, note it
in the description when you submit your entry, but keep in mind we
study every model regardless of notations.
Moving parts are not a plus or a minus. If they are done
well, and all things are equal between a model with moving parts and
one without, it may tip the scales toward the working one. But
rarely are "all things equal".
Difficulty of the kit used is considered, but the
primary focus is the end result, it is the finished model that is
Subject and color do matter to the judges, every model
will be fully studied. Make sure to use the appropriate color for
your subject so that you do not loose “points” for using an
Some colors and paints are inherently more difficult to
work with. Consideration is given to them, but they still must be
applied well. Another case of "all things being equal", a more
difficult paint job can sway the results in that direction.
Models also should be constructed as logical
counterparts to real cars. For example, while an incorrect firing
order on a wired engine is not catastrophic, plumbing the fuel lines
to the spark plugs would certainly be noted as a negative. The more
accurate and logical the mechanicals are the better.
Granted, many models are not exact replicas of real
cars, but that does not negate reasonable and logical requirements
of mechanical construction.
When you can see clean through the wheels, wheel wells,
engine, chassis and out the other side, that also is not
mechanically sound. Same thing with being able to see through gaps
elsewhere on the model. While these situations may not bump a model
out of serious competition, by not having those problems it elevates
Models that are built as replicas of a car during an
actual event should be just that, copies in as many respects as
possible to that of the real car. Documentation, while not required,
is a benefit. On the other side of that coin, documentation that
shows the model does not match the intended real car is of no
Some models are weathered to some degree. Just like
other aspects of modeling, well executed dirt is usually better than
poorly done clean. Weathered models are judged on their own merits
just as any other entry.
Last, keeping in mind
the phrase, “General Quality and Command of the Basics of Model
Building” we are going to institute what we will call “The Minimum
Quality of Building Requirement”. This is so that we can maintain
across the board a certain level of quality that will prevent
someone from grabbing an old build off the back of the shelf,
dusting it off and entering it only because they see a limited
number of entries for a given category. To explain further, if there
are only three subjects entered in a category and third does not
meet “The Minimum Quality of Building Requirement” then the third
place award may not be given to that entry and could very well be
given out as a fourth place award or an “Honorable Mention” in
If you have any
questions about any of these guidelines you can send an email for
All winners will be
posted up on Icon Automotive Miniatures website on the weekend of
September the 9th. Awards will be handed out, so to speak, and the
winners notified via email at that time as well.
Here is how the awards
will break down. We will award a 1st, 2nd & 3rd
place award for each Sub-Category as well as an OOB award for each
Sub-Category. You could potentially win two awards for your OOB
entry. I addition as stated above there will be a “Best of Show” & the “Icon” award. All awards will be in the form of a
Gift Certificate to an on-line retailer or in the form of Icon
Automotive Miniatures products.
we have done away with Best Open Wheel and Best Sports Car because
we feel that they are redundant and that the Best of show award
should be sufficient for the "Best of" award. We have also
eliminated the Best Paint / Finish because I have been told by our
judges that a Best Paint award is hard enough to give in person so
trying to do it on-line would be an injustice to all models entered.
Rest assured that the money set aside for the deleted awards is
going to be put into boosting the remaining awards.
Simple suggestions for shooting
pictures of your models from Steve Mohlenkamp, Professional Race
Daylight: Shoot on cloudy
days, or in shade on bright days. Use auto color balance on your
camera to reduce the "blue" that occurs when shooting with cooler
light. When shooting out in the bright sunlight, be prepared to
diffuse and soften the light on a bright day, with a white bed
sheet, or even better yet, something smaller like sheets of vellum
or tracing paper from an art supply store. Mounting it between your
subject and the light source, ( the sun in this case ) can be done
in any way, ...you are a modeler, solve it and get it suspended
horizontally above the model. The idea is to reduce the amount of
hard light hitting the subject. Just keep adding layers of the
translucent paper until your pictures of your models have reduced
bright highlight reflections.
Indoor lighting: The idea here is to recreate the normal look
of outside light. One light source above and slightly behind the
subject is a good place to start. This can be a lamp with the shade
removed, or any other electric light source that you can somehow
suspend above the subject. Since this setup lights the subject from
slightly behind and above, and thus front facing areas of the
subject aren't lit directly, you can then bounce light back into the
subject from the camera angle, with pieces of white foam core, or
even little mirrors for harder bounce back, to light those areas.
Gold mat board will reflect a gold very warm light back into the
subject ! Use the layers of vellum or tracing paper between the
light source and the subject to again soften harsh reflections.
Try to use a background that looks natural, and for a really nice
"pavement" look to set your model on, spray a speckled spray paint
used to resemble stone, found at any Wal-mart, Target, or such, to
create a little texture, and then cover with a hap hazard coat of
flat black and you have the perfect paved looking "set" to shoot
your models. Shoot at some elevated angles, but always remember to
shoot at some low level and ground level angles to more represent
the angles we see these cars if they would be right on front of us,
in real. You can stand black or any color poster board in the
background to eliminate chaotic and distracting backgrounds. You can
also create a seamless background by taking a large sheet of poster
board, and laying it flat on a surface and simply bending the far
edge up and supporting it that way, to create a curve upward with
the model on the flat front part of the set.
Happy shooting !!!!!!!
Well, that’s it!! I hope you will
join in on the fun and build a model for the Icon Automotive
Miniatures On-Line Model Car Contest!!